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Understanding acids in skincare pt.2


In my previous blog post, I introduced some of the most common acids in the world of skincare. As I help you to understand different acids and why we should use them, I’m introducing more this week. As always, I like to keep thing’s simple, so I’m going to break each one down for you, avoiding any complex terms or industry jargon. 

Gluconolactone acid

Gluconolactone is a poly-hydroxy acid or PHA. While this group of acids are often overshadowed by their ever-popular cousins alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids, gluconolactone should be on your radar! 

Gluconolactone is a choice acid for improving skin tone and texture, removing any dead skin cells that leave your complexion looking dull and lacklustre. As one of the gentlest exfoliators on the market, it’s an excellent pick for those of us with sensitive skin. 

Lactobionic acid

If AHA’s are a little too harsh on your skin, but you’re in search of the same benefits, lactobionic acids are the answers to your prayers. Like all acids, it can be irritating to your skin, so be sure to test it first. 

Lactobionic acid is the oxidized form of lactose, which is derived from milk. However, because it is a larger molecule than glycolic acid, it will not penetrate your skin as well, meaning users often find it less irritating than AHA’s. 

Lactobionic acid is not only great for exfoliation, but it helps to protect your skin from sun damage, reduces fine lines, boosts hydration and brightens your skin. 

Maltobionic acid

Maltobionic acid is another member of the PHA family and is often non-irritating for a lot of users. This patented ingredient which is also dubbed “bionic acid” is derived from its natural sugars.

Maltobionic acid is a powerful antioxidant that helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, discolouration and enlarged pores through a gentle exfoliation that is kind on our skin. It’s been shown to target natural-occurring skin degrading enzymes, helping users to achieve a youthful look, making it an excellent choice for those with dehydrated and dry skin. 

Azelaic acid 

While it’s not always a popular choice, azelaic acid is often a favourite of therapists thanks to its versatility and gentleness. This powerful yet gentle dicarboxylic acid which is synthesized by yeast naturally helps to exfoliate the skin, fight acne, reduce inflammation and even skin tone. 

Thanks to its antibacterial properties and gentleness, it’s the unsung hero when it comes to treating acne. 

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid is the secret to plumping fine lines and helping your skin to glow. You’ll find hyaluronic acid in everything from sheet masks and serums to injectables, but what does it do? 

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a sugar which occurs naturally in our skin. It holds water and helps to keep our skin hydrated and plump. The HA found within our bodies holds a thousand times its weight in water, retaining moisture in our skin and joints. 

Much like collagen and elastin, as we get older, our HA levels decrease. So, sometimes we need a helping hand, hence the demand for HA products on the market. 

While it takes some work to understand acids, it’s so worth it. It’s essential for us to understand what you’re putting on your face and why. Of course, this is a whole lot easier when you trust a knowledgeable therapist, just like me. Through a decade of experience, I know which acids work best for specific skin conditions and how they should be applied. Here’s to achieving great skin together! 

 

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